How To Do the Coupon Thing: Part 10-How I Do It

The most common thing I see asked by new couponers is "How Do I Do This?". You know what the second most common thing I see? "I tried following it, but I'm confused! HELP!!! How do you do it?" So today I thought I'd answer that question. This is what my average week of couponing looks like.

Sunday: Newspaper Day! I have a subscription that shows up at my door every Sunday. I pull out all the coupon booklets and the ads for Target, CVS, Rite Aid, Walgreens and the Vons Supplement. Sometimes I pull out ads for other stores if I see a good one and the Parade because they sometimes stick a coupon in there. At this point I flip through the coupons and see if it's worth buying an extra paper or two. If it is, I will go in the afternoon to my local Panera Bread and pick up a couple more (they have the best price on papers in my area). Total Time: Half an hour or less (Depends on whether I have to get another newspaper or not)

Sunday/Monday: Cut, Sort and Organize Coupons. I try to do this on Sunday afternoon, but if I'm busy then I do it Monday instead. I do all my Newspaper coupons and any printed coupons I haven't already cut and used.  Since I use the binder method, which is fairly labor intensive, it takes me about 1-2 hours while watching TV.

Every Day: Check for online coupons. The best method I've found for this is to follow 3-5 different bloggers on Facebook. I go with at least 2 major coupon blogs, like Krazy Coupon Lady and Money Saving Mom, followed by at least 1 local blogger since they will have more regional deals the big ones won't have. When I see a good coupon I know I can use, I print them right away. Time: Less than a hour, spread across the day.

Monday: Save my Ads from the Mail. The junk mail has the grocery store ads. The stores I use all come on Monday (Albertsons, Stater Bros, Ralph's, Vons and Henry's) but some come on Tuesday, so check both. Time: 2 minutes.

Tuesday: Coupon Match Ups. Since I do the match ups for the blog, this takes me 5-6 hours (nope, not kidding!). If you are a non-blogger, this takes much less time. What I do for the ones I don't blog about (Vons, Ralph's, CVS, Rite Aid, Walgreens, Target and Henry's) then I go to the coupon match up online and see what are great deals I can't pass up. I follow up by looking at the ad and seeing if anything not listed is a good deal with the coupons I have or something I need right now, even if it's not the best deal. At this point I will sort out the coupons I need and print/cut any coupons I don't already have. I also decide if there are any stores I can skip that week (there is usually at least two or three grocery stores and one or two drug stores I skip each week) Time for match ups (non blogging): About 1-2 hours for all my stores.

Wednesday: Shopping. I get it all done at once, first thing in the morning. Depending on how many stores I have to get to that week, it can take me between 1-3 hours.

Thursday-Saturday: Nothing except my normal daily check of the hot coupons.

If you look at this list, I put at the most 8 hours a week into my coupons.

So How Can You Do It?

Do the same thing I did! One thing about my system is that it can be done in the evenings when you have time (if you are sitting there watching TV, multitask and coupon at the same time!). The only thing I have that isn't conductive to the average person's schedule is that I shop on Wednesday and get it all done. You may want to split the stores up over the course of the week (hit one Wed. after work, another Thurs., etc) or do it all on Saturday. 

If you are worried you will miss the best deals or you aren't saving enough, It's OK. I don't get every great deal and I feel like I'm doing really well when I save 60% or more. You probably won't get every great deal. You may never get to the level of the "Extreme Couponers" we see on TV. The real question is, are you and your family happy? Do you have enough food and pay less for it? Then don't worry about it! You are doing great!

How to Do the Coupon Thing: Part 12 Rite Aid

I know it's been awhile for an update for How to Do the Coupon Thing, but I wanted to make sure we covered Rite Aid for those interested in shopping there.


Rite Aid, like Walgreens and CVS, is one of the major drug stores. Also like Walgreens and CVS, they run on a Sunday through Saturday sale cycle EXCEPT IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA! Yeah, if you aren't a local reader, don't worry much about this. For the rest of us, they run a Friday to Thursday sale cycle (I learned this the hard way....)

Rite Aid has a lot of different ways to save, it's kind of like combining Walgreens and CVS plus a little more on their own. Like CVS, Rite Aid has a card, called the Wellness+ Card. The card works to give you UP+ Rewards, similar to ECBs and Register Rewards, which will give you a certain amount back to spend on another trip. UP+ Rewards are usually only good for a week, so if you're not a regular Rite Aid shopper you may find them going to waste.

On top of the UP+ Rewards, they have a program called Single Check Rebate. A Single Check Rebate (SCR) will give you actual cash back (not just rewards to use at their store). With these, you will buy the product and take your receipt home. At home, log onto the Rite Aid website and submit your rebates on their website. If you prefer, you can hold them and do it once a month. At the end of the month, Rite Aid will take all the rebates you've sent them and mail you a single check (thus its name). You can check HERE for a list of the SCRs currently available (they change monthly). Special Note: You can only submit an SCR for 1 item per household. So if Crest and Charmin both have an SCR this month, you can buy one of each and submit it. If you want to buy more Crest because it's free, only the first tube will qualify for the SCR.

Now, to make it even more interesting, Rite Aid also has store coupons! Called Video Value Coupons, there are a collection of videos to watch on their website every month. After you watch the video, you will be prompted to enter a CAPTCHA code (to make sure you actually watched the video). It will then generate a coupon. Once you've watched the video you are interested in (or a bunch if you prefer) then you can open up the list of coupons available to you and print them off. The videos are up for a month and the coupons are good until the end of the next month (so if you print off June Video Value Coupons, they are good until the end of July).

Video Value Coupons can be combined with manufacturer coupons (although the coupons state they are manufacturer on the top, they are actually store coupons). They also can be used on items which qualify for UP+ Rewards or SCRs.

Now for the nitty gritty details of the coupon policy at Rite Aid (AKA, what you can and can't do).

*Video Values Coupons can be combined with Manufacturer Coupons on an item
*When a coupon is released for $X off your purchase of $Z or more (like $5 off a $25 purchase), you have to reach this threshold BEFORE coupons, so you can use it and your coupons to get your actual total lower.
*Buy One Get One coupons are accepted. The big caveats are this: You can also use a $$ off coupon on the first item (So if you have a coupon for Buy 1 Charmin toilet paper, Get 1 pack of Fresh Wipes, you can use a $0.25/1 coupon on the toilet paper as well). You cannot use a BOGO coupon on a BOGO sale (so if they have M&Ms for Buy One Get One in the store, you can't use a Buy One Get One coupon at the same time. You can use 1 $0.50/1 coupon though).
*Rite Aid only allows 4 like coupons per person IF there is enough stock to satisfy AND at the manager's discretion. This is the newest change and is what is likely to be tricky. In order to prevent (or at least slow) shelf clearing, you can only use 4 like coupons per person. What this means is if you see that Crest is free this week after your $1 off coupon, then Rite Aid will allow you to buy no more than 4. This is also limited by the stock AND the manager's decision. So if the store manager decides you can only use 1, then you are stuck or you are buying without coupons.

Rite Aid, like the other two, isn't that hard once you get the system down. It can seem a little overwhelming at first, since they have several programs, but they actually work together and it can be easier. Plus you have a less likely chance of finding your shelves cleared now!

How To Do the Coupon Thing: Part 11-Coupon Ethics

If you are new to couponing, you may not have noticed that many stores lately have changed their coupon policy. The reason, more than anything, is because some (not all, not even many in my opinion) couponers do not follow some basic coupon ethics/politeness. So let's go over some of the basic things when it comes to coupons.

1. Don't Steal! This covers all sorts of things, but specifically don't steal coupons! We all want coupons and I know it can be expensive to buy lots of coupons, but there are lots of ways to get coupons for free without stealing. Ask your friends and neighbors for their coupons. Check with your local recycling center to see if they will give you the coupons that are going to be recycled. Don't take your neighbor's paper, don't take coupons out of newspapers at stores unless you buy the paper OR if the coupons have been discarded and you have been given permission to take the extras, don't go through dumpsters and/or trashcans for coupons (the last one is hotly debated in coupon worlds. I say don't for a number of safety and legal reasons. In certain states, it is illegal to take things out of dumpsters. California, for example, has laws against removing things from recycle bins, which is where coupons should be).

2. Don't Clear the Shelves! This one has caused many complaints and frustrations and even a few changes to coupon policy (like Rite Aid, who changed their policy this week so you can only use 4 like coupons at a time). I know when you see a good deal, you want to get as many as possible. For example, a few weeks ago I saw that Albertsons had Dave's water for free. I bought 40, which seems ridiculous. I also checked before I bought that many there there were still plenty for other people (there was easily 60 or more left on the shelf). Unless there is only one or two on the shelf, DON'T TAKE THEM ALL! Leave some for the next person. Whether that person is a couponer or not, they will be grateful.

3. Don't Copy Coupons! It's illegal and yes, people have been prosecuted for it. This is a big issue with Internet coupons. Many (not all, for example, this isn't true of the wonderful Real California coupon) have special codes that only allow you to print up to 2 from any 1 computer. Don't copy. If you want more, find a way to get them that isn't illegal (like using multiple computers).

4. Use The Coupon for the Item(s) stated Only! This has become a massive issue since one of the people on Extreme Couponing was shown cheating the system by using coupons for things other than was in the transaction. This is illegal too. Read the coupon carefully and use it right. If you run into problems at the stores, if you use your coupon right it will significantly cut down on headaches (no, it won't cut them down completely. I have run into more than one cashier who has been unhappy to take my coupons, even when I use them right). Here's a fact you may not know, but if the coupons don't match the items sold, then the stores don't get the money back from the manufacturer. You are, in effect, stealing from the stores when you use a coupon for something other than the stated items.

5. Follow the Store's Coupon Policy. If you do this, you will have a lot less headaches as well. Plus, you won't be branded a "bad couponer" at your store (yes, they have them. I've even heard of certain couponers being denied use of a store because of their behavior!). If you aren't sure about a policy, check online or ask your store manager. I put up a copy of the Stater Bros policy with my posts and I highly encourage you to read it and print it out. Sometimes the cashiers don't know the policy (this is a big issue at Stater Bros, since they didn't have a written policy until February) so having a copy can keep both you protected and following the rules.

6. Do Unto Others as You'd Have them Do Unto You. This covers just about everything else. Would you like it if someone else did this to you? When you answer that question, you answer whether or not you should be doing something. Follow it and you will unlikely to go wrong.

How To Do the Coupon Thing: Part 9-Walgreens

You thought we were done, didn't you? Nope! How To Do the Coupon Thing is back and this week we're talking about shopping at Walgreens.

Walgreens is the largest drugstore in the country. You probably have at least one nearby. Like CVS, most of the great deals you will find there will be health and beauty related.

So how does Walgreens work? Well, Their big draw is called Register Rewards. Register Rewards are little pieces of paper that print after your transaction for a dollar amount off your next transaction. Most are for any transaction, although some are on your next transaction of a certain item (ie, $3 off your next purchase vs. $4 off your next purchase of Huggies). Every week their ad will list items that will have Register Rewards and between Register Rewards and coupons, you can get many items for free or a moneymaker. The biggest drawback I've found to Register Rewards is that most only have 2 weeks until they expire, meaning I have to get in there more often if I don't want them to run out.

Walgreens also gives out a LOT of coupons. These are usually store coupons, so they can be combined with manufacturer coupons for better deals. Walgreens has coupons in their ad every week (so I suggest you hold onto the ad for the week) along with coupon booklets you can get in-store. While you can't combine in-ad coupons with coupons from the booklets, it's rarely a problem.

So you wanna know the weird catch to Walgreens? They have a funny coupon policy. You have to have the same number (or more) of items as you have coupons. So let's say you are buying 1 package of Huggies Diapers, 1 package Cottennelle Toilet Paper and 1 tube of Colgate Toothpaste. But you have 1 manufacturer coupon for Huggies plus 1 coupon from the Walgreens Infant Care Booklet for Huggies, 1 manufacturer's coupon for Cottennelle plus 1 from the May monthly Walgreens Coupon Booklet and 1 coupon for Colgate Toothpaste. You also have 2 Register Rewards you want to use from last week, for a total of 7 coupons (RRs are coupons too). You have to buy 7 separate items to use all the coupons, even though you only need the 3. To combat this, you have to buy "filler" items, which are items that are very cheap (like candy or something in clearance) to bring your total number of items to 7.

A few other things to know about Walgreens coupon policy:

*If an ad says Buy One, Get One (or similar verbiage) you can use a coupon for each item.

*If your coupon is worth more than the price of the item, it will be brought down to match the price of the item. For example, this week you can buy Splenda for $2.99 each and there is a $3 off coupon available. The coupon will go down to $2.99 at the register. This doesn't affect whether you can get the Register Rewards or not though, so if you get something for free at the register, it can become a moneymaker after RRs.

*You cannot "roll" Register Rewards. What this means is if you buy 3 Splenda and get $4 in RRs, if you use those same RRs to buy 3 more Splenda, you won't get any more RRs. But if you use the RRs you get from a different item, you will get more RRs. Yes, I agree, it's strange.

*If you use Register Rewards and your total is less than 0 (like negative $1) BEFORE TAX, then you lose that extra (so if you total before tax was negative $1, you lose that dollar, taking your total to $0). You will still have to pay taxes on your items, so watch for your Subtotal before tax!

That's the basics of Walgreens. It's not that difficult, overall. If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below!

This is part of the the series How To Do the Coupon Thing. To see the rest of the Series, Click HERE

How To Do the Coupon Thing: Part 8-CVS

One major way to save with coupons is to shop at the drugstores (something I wouldn't have believed before I started couponing!). All three of the major drugstores end up having stuff for FREE every single week. Check out the drugstore donation list.

But, if you want to do well at the drugstores, you have to know how to play the game. So I'll teach you, starting with CVS.

CVS is, at least in my opinion, the easiest of the three major drugstores. It's easy to learn, you can make money faster, the nicest setup of the stores and I rarely have problems finding what I need.

So how does shopping at CVS work? First, you need one of their cards (Yup, a card!). You can sign up here. You can also sign up in the store.

CVS offers Extra Care Bucks, AKA ECB. ECBs are basically free money. Every week certain items will go on sale and offer ECBs. When you buy this item, you will pay the price out of pocket (minus whatever coupons you have) and get the ECB at the bottom of the receipt. If you hold onto these (and you should!) the next time you go into CVS you can use your ECB to help pay for your new purchase! Because of this, you can "roll" ECBs or continually pay for your purchase with ECBs and get more for your next trip. This means after a few weeks, you'll be paying very little (if any) out of pocket for your purchases.

You also get ECBs every quarter for the amount of money you spend in the previous quarter. CVS gives you 2% of your out of pocket expense. Last quarter I spent $100 total and got $2 in ECB. Certainly not a lot, but these ECBs are slightly different than normal. Normal ECBs cannot be used to pay tax (yeah, it sucks. Especially since California taxes household goods) but for some reason the quarterly ECBs do cover tax, meaning your total can be incredibly low or free every so often. If you don't pay taxes on many household goods, you might not even have that problem.

Now the caveats about ECBs. I mentioned in the previous paragraph that with the exception of the quarterly ECBs, they don't cover tax. So you need to only use enough ECBs to cover your SUBTOTAL! With ECBs, if you go over, you lose the extra. So if you owe a $1 and have $1.50 ECB, you can either use the $1.50 and lose the $0.50 or pay the $1 out of pocket and hold onto the ECB for your next trip. I usually hold onto them, especially if I know I'm paying tax too.

The other thing about ECBs is that they are only good for a month, so if you don't use them, you lose them. I've been told that they may let you use them a day or two after the expiration date, but I haven't tried it.

Most of the free stuff you get from CVS comes from a combination of coupons and ECBs. For example, this week (4/10 to 4/16), you can get Airwick Freshmatic Starter Kit for free (and make some money) with coupons and ECBs. They have a deal going where you buy $20 in certain products (including the starter kit) before coupons, you get $10 in ECB. There are coupons available for $4 off the starter kit and the kits cost $6 each. If you buy 4, using 4 coupons, you will buy $24 worth before coupons, but with the coupons it will take it down to $8 you actually spend. Since you hit the $20 before coupons, you get the $10 in ECB for your next trip. You end up with an extra $2 for your next trip than what you actually spent. Not bad, eh?

CVS doesn't always use ECBs and they do have some good deals without them, simply using coupons, but it's rare (for me anyway) to find a deal that is better than at the grocery stores.

Finally, CVS will periodically send out coupons and freebies via email, Facebook and Twitter. I get all sorts of coupons in my email and recently I've been able to get a free soda and free lotion because I follow them on Twitter and "Like" them on Facebook.

So what can you find for a good price at CVS? Mostly, it's household goods. Toothpaste, deodorant, body wash, feminine hygiene, medicine, toilet paper, paper towels and cleaning supplies. They do have food and there are times when you can get a good deal (like this week with cereal) but generally, I don't end up buying food there. CVS is also good for the seasonal products, like Easter or Halloween candy.

CVS can be quite easy once you get used to it. Give it a try.

This is part of the series How To Do the Coupon Thing. Check out the whole series here.

How To Do the Coupon Thing: Part 7-Saving on the Basics

Originally we were going to cover CVS, but after a question from Tricia at Returning to Disney and my own decision to cut many processed foods from my diet, I decided to make this one about saving on the basics. Most people eat fruit and vegetables, milk, and some form of meat. Yet this is the stuff that it can be hardest to save money on, especially when it's the basis of your diet.

So how do you save on the basics?

1. Make a price book. A price book can tell you who has the best prices for the stuff you buy. (Don't know what a price book is or how to make one? Check out my post here!) If you have a price book, you'll know when you see a good price on something or if you can pass until you get to your regular store. It can also tell you what store should be your regular store and which store you can pass up.

2. Check out the local "Healthy Stores". Most people have at least one or two stores that I label "healthy". This includes stores like Trader Joes and Whole Foods. These stores have a much better selection of healthy foods, including organics. You should also see if you have a regional store or two that sells similar products. Here in Southern California we have 2 major regional chains, Henry's and Sprouts. Both stores carry a large selection of fruit and vegetables (including organic) and many organic and healthy brands of "regular" foods.

3. Go Local! If you don't have a health store nearby (or even if you do) start looking for local options. Food is a lot cheaper if you don't have to pay to have it transported thousands of miles (and it's fresher too!). Check out farmer's markets in your area. For us, our city has a farmer's market every Tuesday. The city we used to live in (about 10 miles down the highway) has one every Saturday. If you don't have a farmer's market, look for the stands by the side of the road. These are local farmers and since it's usually straight from the farmer, it's a lot cheaper.

Co-Ops and CSAs, which both allow you to pay a fee and have access to local food similar to a grocery store, fall into this catagory.

Want to find local options? Check out Local Harvest, which has tons of resources including a search feature!

4. Stockpile. I talked about stockpiling last week but this is worth repeating when it comes to saving on the basics. If you find a great price on milk, buy 2 or 3. When fruits or veggies are in season, buy lots and freeze them. It's a lot cheaper to buy strawberries in late spring that in late fall.

5. Go Generic. We know that regular grocery stores carry fruits and veggies. But did you know that many grocery stores now have an organic fruit and veggies section AND carry their own organic boxed foods? Simply O is the Safeway brand for organic food (Vons is owned by them, so look for them there too!) For our Stater Bros shoppers, check out the Full Circle products there.

6. Coupons! Yup, even when it comes to the basics, there are coupons! As healthy food has become more mainstream, manufacturer's have realized that people want coupons for healthy food!

You can get coupons for many healthy brands. Check out Mambo Sprouts. They have a lot of coupons for brands like Luna, Silk, Almond Breeze, McCann, Kashi and many more. Also, as healthy brands become more mainstream, the more you will find coupons for them in your Sunday paper.

What about stuff like fruit, vegetables, and meat? Actually, there are coupons for those too! I've gotten coupons for tomatoes and pork in my normal Sunday circular. A lot of in-store coupon booklets carry meat and vegetable products for in-store only. In February I walked away with a lot of cheap meat at Vons because Safeway released an in-store coupon booklet that included a coupon for $2 off any Rancher's Reserve meat (their in-house brand).

Another advantage of healthy food going mainstream is that many regular manufacturer's now make healthy food, making it the same price as their regular type. Most of the coupons for the regular food work on the healthy food too! Last week I bought all-natural bread at our local bread outlet followed by natural Skippy peanut butter at the same sale price as the regular stuff. I needed bread and peanut butter and I didn't end up paying any extra for buying the natural food.

Even if you only buy food at stores that don't take coupons (like Trader Joes) you can still use coupons to get free deodorant, toothpaste, paper towels, toilet paper and vitamins (yes, it's possible on vitamins. I did it a few weeks ago). Drugstores severely discount these items to get you in the store on a regular basis. Don't believe me? Check out my Drugstore Donation list.

If you don't pay anything for toothpaste, you can use that money and buy organic blueberries instead.

So if you're trying to eat healthier or have dietary restrictions, you don't have to pay an arm and leg for it. Couponing and saving money can be done no matter how you eat.

This is part of the Series, How To Do the Coupon Thing. Check out the whole series here.

How to Do the Coupon Thing: Part 6-The Stockpile

Those are pictures of my freezer. Some of the things inside include:

4 boxes of vegetables

5 bags of vegetables

8 containers of apple juice concentrate

1 container of Cool Whip

2 bags of chicken wings

1 3 lb. bag frozen chicken

1 lb. of 96% lean ground beef

2 20 oz. containers ground turkey

1 loaf of wheat bread

1 package hot dog buns

1 large container roasted chicken


 
Before I started doing the coupon thing, I wouldn't have had half that stuff in my freezer. Some, like the veggies and apple juice, I might have had, but certainly not in that quantity.

What's the difference? I learned the importance of stockpiling. Instead of spending $1.50 or $2 on a container of apple juice concentrate when I run to the store, I bought 12 containers for about $0.80 each (plus I got 2 free freezer bags!). Now I've got enough to get us through until the next big sale. I'm actually low on chicken and ground beef right now; since I know the sales should be right around the corner.


 
So what is stockpiling? It's buying larger quantities of an item than you don't need right now in order to save it for a later date. It's highly recommended that you have a small stockpile in case of an emergency. For couponers, it means buying a lot of an item when it's at a great price so you won't need to buy more until the next time it's at a great price.

Last week I bought 20 bottles of flavored water. I did it because I got it for free and Dave drinks one at work every morning. I could have bought 5 or 10, just enough to get by until the next week or two, when I'd run to the store and finding that nobody had anything similar to flavored water on sale, I'd buy the generic brand for $1 each (not counting CRV or tax, both of which are charged on that type of water here in CA). By stockpiling, I saved myself $20 over the course of the month and the "DARN DAVE NEEDS WATER" run on Sunday night, saving gas too. Now, the water sits in on the shelf in our pantry specifically for Dave's lunch.


 
What can you stockpile? Almost anything! The only thing you will have trouble with could be food that spoils (and even most of that can be stockpiled in your freezer). Right now I have stockpiles of tortillas, ketchup, peanut butter, jelly, pasta, canned veggies, canned beans, tea, frozen veggies, roasted chicken, apple juice, chicken wings, Cool Whip, blueberries, strawberries, cereal, flavored water, small bags of chips, flavored drink pouches, coffee cakes, oatmeal, flour, sugar, powdered sugar, vegetable juice, toothpaste, toilet paper, paper towels, shampoo, deodorant, pain medicine, cold medicine, cough drops, razors, dish soap, dishwasher soap, laundry detergent, bleach, cleaning supplies and children's toys (for presents). I got all of these things when they were on an awesome sale and now I have less worry about running out before the next sale.


 
But I don't have space to stockpile stuff! Have I ever mentioned that I live in an 865 square foot apartment? And I share it with another adult (Dave) and 2 children under the age of 6 (Beautiful G & Sunshine). We have a lot of stuff. I don't have a room dedicated to my stockpile. I don't have a garage to put shelves in and hold my stuff. All of my smaller bathroom items (toothpaste, pain medicine, etc.) and my cleaning supplies share a single shelf in my hall closet, between Beautiful G's craft/school shelf and Dave's tool shelf (Oh, the camera and envelopes share the same shelf as the stockpile). The paper towels and laundry items sit on the high shelf above the washer & dryer (also located in the hall, btw). Toilet paper hides in the girls' bathroom and food supplies are spread through the high shelves on my cupboards and in the fridge or freezer. Oh, yes, I have a regular every day upright fridge and freezer, just like your average American. No spare freezer here. And the toys? In the bottom of my closet next to my sewing projects.

If I have space, I bet you do too. Look around. Do you have a shelf in your pantry you could clean out? How about some high shelves in your cupboard? Much of my stockpile sits on the high shelf because I know I won't need to get into it daily. When I do need to get in it, I can bring a step stool or ladder over and pull down what I need. I've heard of people who would store stuff in plastic bins under their bed.


 
But I don't want my house cluttered with stuff! Well yeah, I get that. I don't like tripping over stuff anymore than you do. Which is why it's put away, in a certain place. If you put everything on a single shelf, organized, it won't be clutter. Let's say you buy 10 boxes of pasta because you got it for free. You can put two or three of those boxes with your normal pasta supply and put the rest up on the high shelf, organized with the other things in your stockpile. When you use the last box of pasta on your normal shelf, pull down two or three more. It's not clutter if it's stored properly and you will use it. If you get something for free and won't use it, donate it instead of letting it sit in your stockpile. If it won't get used, it is most certainly clutter and needs to go!


 
But I'm not a store; I can just go get more whenever I need it! This was Dave's thing for a while (and he still says it sometimes, until I remind him why I stockpile). You're right, I'm not a store. But if it's 5 o'clock and I'm in the middle of making spaghetti only to find that I don't have a box of pasta, I'm much happier pulling one out of my stockpile of free stuff than I am turning off the stove, getting two kids in shoes and to the car, drive to the store, pick up a box and head home to restart dinner. I'm also happier when I'm not paying $2 or $3 for a box of pasta because I didn't get any (or only got one or two) when it was free. It's less of a hassle and cheaper to stockpile.


 
Ok, you've convinced me. How do I start? This is a lot easier than you think. First, look at the ads and the deals posted online. Do you see anything you could use in your house for free or will make you money? That is going on your list (heck, if it's free, I'd put it on your list even if it's not something you can use. Instead, donate it!). Next, see if anything else on the list is something you use regularly that is very cheap. See chicken breasts for $1.75 lb.? Add that to your list. Make sure to write down the amount you'll need to get to the next good sale (usually between 8 to 12 weeks, although for some things it will be longer and others much shorter). Once you've got that done, add the other things you have to buy for the week, even if it's not on sale. On those, try to buy fewer since hopefully it will go on sale soon.

Do this week in and week out. As you continue to do it, you'll quickly see your stockpile growing. You won't have nearly as many items on your "I have to buy now" list and more on your "stockpile" list. There are some truly extreme shoppers out there who only buy stockpile stuff and stuff like milk and produce that doesn't store long (I'm not there yet).

At first your grocery budget is going to get bigger unless you are very careful about it. If you can't afford right now for your budget to grow any, then figure out your weekly grocery budget. Once you have that figured out, continue as above, but keep close track of the costs. If you are going to go over budget, I suggest putting back stockpile stuff first (but not all of it, or you'll never get anywhere) or see if there is something you don't absolutely need in your non-sale stuff and put it back. The more you stockpile, the lower your grocery bill will become (or the more stuff you have in the house, which happened to us). Remember that and you'll save yourself some headache.


This is part of the "How To Do the Coupon Thing" Series. Check HERE for all the posts in the series

Look the next exciting installment, How to Do the Coupon Thing: Part 7-CVS

How To Do the Coupon Thing, Part 5: How to Get the Best Deals with Your Coupons

Yesterday, between Albertsons and CVS, I spent $13.57 for all of the stuff above. The official rundown of stuff is:

CVS:
2 tubes of Crest Toothpaste
1 bottle of Gain Dish Soap
1 bottle Aussie Shampoo
1 bottle Aussie Deep Conditioner
1 small package M&Ms
1 package AAA batteries

Everything on the list was on sale, except the M&Ms. On top of that, I had a coupon for each item except the M&Ms. If I had simply run to the store and bought these things, it would have cost me $26.63. The sale prices took my total to: $17.90

My coupons included: a BOGO on the Aussie, a $1 off on the other Aussie (one not free), $1 off Crest (x2), $0.75 off Duracell, $1 off Gain.The Aussie BOGO, Crest and Duracell coupons all came from my regular Sunday paper. The other Aussie and Gain coupons I got from a mail in rebate I sent to P&G a few months ago.

After they subtracted coupons, my subtotal was $10.16. I used a $10 ECB I had from a previous transaction, taking my subtotal to $0.16 and my final total (everything except the M&Ms had tax) was $1.64. I also got $7.00 in ECBs for my next trip (plus have another $5 in ECBs from a previous transaction).

Albertsons:
10 Propel Fitness Waters
1 Half Gallon Milk
1 bottle Imitation Maple Extract

The water and milk were on sale, but the maple extract wasn't. I had one coupon, for the milk, from here. Original price on this would have been $22.08 but after the sale prices, my total was $17.48.

The milk coupon was for $0.55 off and because I bought 10 waters, which were part of a mix and match sale, I got another $5 off. Since everything was food, no sales tax, giving me a total of $11.93.

Now, I know that was a lot of numbers. Since I'm not a hot shot math person, I know that can seem a bit overwhelming and boring. My goal wasn't to make your eyes glaze over, but to show you how important sales and using your coupons with sales can be. The Crest, Aussie Shampoo and Gain will all be put in my stockpile of stuff to use later. But everything else is for every day, current use. But since I bought smart, it cost me a whole lot less.

Here's the great part, you can do it too. In fact, if you wanted to (and lived in SoCal) you could completely replicate my Albertsons purchase today without needing to buy a newspaper or have any previous coupons.

Coupons are great (obviously). But combine the coupon with a good sale and you are going to save massive amounts of money. I learned (after my trip, unfortunately) that there are coupons out right now for the water and when it was combined with the sale, I could have gotten the water completely free. The Gain was completely free after the coupon and sale. The Crest and Aussie were too, after you add in the ECBs I got for them.

So how do you get the best deals? There are two ways to do it and I recommend using both. One will work wonderfully for all the big sales and the other will work for the big sales AND the everyday items you buy that may not go on sale all the time.

The first way to find awesome deals is to read coupon match ups provided online. I do the weekly Stater Bros and Albertsons match ups. On top of that, I check out the CVS, Vons, Ralph's and Target match ups on other blogs (To see the ones I use, click the name of the store).

Coupon match ups simply list the deals from the ad and combine it with coupons available to most people. You can use this list to see what you need/want to buy and match it up with available coupons. It makes the grocery list (and coupons) easy. Once you determine what you want/need (or if you can skip that store, since you probably don't need to go to every store every week. I never go to all of them), you simply pull out or print the coupons you need, write your list and you are ready to go. You know your going to get a great deal because it's already there in front of you.

While the match ups can be a great help for the deals advertised in the weekly ad, this doesn't help if the item you need isn't listed in the ad. In this case, you need to go with option 2. The price book.

The price book is simply a list of prices you find for things you buy. Need to know if paying $3 for 10 tortillas is a good price? Well, look in your price book and see (the answer is NO, by the way. At least here in SoCal!). Personally, I'm still working on my price book, but mine contains the average price I see in the stores, the best price I've paid for the item and if I used coupons or not to get that price. It is also worth noting down the date you paid the best price since some items have huge discounts only during certain times of the year (like baking supplies at Christmas).

The price book can also help with the match ups, by the way. Let's say you see that ketchup is on sale this week for $1.50 for a 40 oz bottle. A quick look in your price book can show you that the price is below average, it's not the lowest you've paid (or close). In that case, if you need the item (like I often do) then buy one or two, but you probably don't want to buy a whole lot.

But if you look in the price book and see that it's close to the price you've paid previously (or when combined with coupons will be close to the price) then buy some extra. That way, when you finish that bottle of ketchup, you have another bottle. You didn't have to run to the store and pay a dollar or two more.

Combine coupons with your sales. It's worth every penny you save!


This is part of the How To Do the Coupon Thing Series, teaching you how to save a lot of money using coupons. Watch for Part 6, The Stockpile.

How To Do the Coupon Thing, Part 4: How to Store These Coupons!!!

We've got coupons. We know how they work. These are great. Now we've got to keep them organized. I promise you, if you don't keep them organized, you will not use them. The reason is simple, you won't be able to find them!

So how do you organize and store your coupons? There are 3 main ways people do it: the insert method, the envelope method and the binder method.

The easiest way to store them is the insert method. Whenever you get the coupons from your Sunday paper (or print them out from the Internet) you write the date on the top and file the whole thing away in a filing box or drawer. Whenever you need a coupon, you simply go to the filing box, pull out the insert you need and cut out the coupon. When the coupons expire just toss the entire page. To help those who use this method, most coupon match ups will list the date the coupon came out, so you can quickly find the coupon. The upside to this method is that it is very low maintenance. File them away as you get them, only cut what you need and go. The down side is that you may have inserts for a very long time (since some coupons have a long expiration date, like the recent Listerine coupons that don't expire until the end of the year) and if you find a great deal while you are at the store, you won't have your coupons with you.

The envelope method is a mid-grade way to store your coupons. It has some features of both systems which can make it ideal if you a getting into couponing and are trying to score the best deals all the time. With the envelope system, you simply cut out the coupons each week and file them in an envelope sorted by type. For example, you may have an envelope just for personal hygiene and another for paper goods. The little coupon dividers sold at the grocery and craft stores work well with this method too. The upside to this method is that it is less labor intensive than the binder method while still allowing you to take your coupons to store if you find a great deal. The downside is that it is more labor intensive that the insert method and if you get a lot of coupons (like I have) then you may find yourself standing in the middle of the grocery store searching for the right coupon (or if you have one) for awhile. I've done it before and with kids, it's never a fun game to play.

The binder method is probably the biggest challenge but also the best method if you are really serious about couponing. Here's a picture of mine.

Yes, my crazed lady is on the front cover. I use a 3 ring binder that is 1 1/2 inches thick and full of card holders. You can get a 3 ring binder from almost any major store, including your supercenters and office supply stores. The card holders are originally designed for baseball (or card games, if you are a geek like me). I've been told you can get them at your local supercenters, in the area they have baseball and Pokemon cards, but I never saw them at mine. I ended up going to a local gaming shop who had them for really cheap. If your supercenter doesn't carry them, you can order them online or search for a shop that carries cards like Magic: The Gathering and other card-RPG style games (gosh my geekiness is showing!). If you live in San Diego (or Northeast Ohio) email me here and I'll happily give you a place to get them. Check out what they look like with coupons in them:

The binder method is the more organized way of storing your coupons, but its also the most labor intensive. You will need to cut the coupons, then sort them into the correct areas and then put them away. It also is the easiest when you get to the store. If, for example, I find that Dove has a great sale that wasn't in the ad, I can simply flip to the section of my binder with Dove products, pull out the the coupon and have it on hand when I check out.

My way of doing things has given me 41 categories, but most people don't break it down quite so much. Basically, figure out what categories work for you (for example, I need a category for kid coupons but not for pets. You may be the exact opposite!) and sort the coupons by category. I also suggest keeping a category list at the beginning of your binder, so you'll be able to quickly flip to the right area. I also have a card page set up to hold the coupons for the various stores I go to. That way if I have a store specific coupons (and my ECBs) I don't have to hunt them down. Also, if I look at the coupon match ups and know what I'm going to buy, I can pull the coupons out right away and store them together instead of trying to pull them out later.

The upside of the binder method is that you can get to your coupons quickly and easily. The down side is that it takes a lot more time, especially if you have a lot of coupons to sort!

My suggestion is to pick a method, try it out and if it doesn't work well for you, then try another. It's up to you, as long as you store them somehow!

There will be a Part 5, in case you are wondering. Part 5: How to Get the Best Deals with Your Coupons!

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

How To Do the Coupon Thing, Part 3: Anatomy of a Coupon

Coupons, just like people and animals, have a basic anatomy. Unlike people and animals, though, coupon anatomy moves around. A lot.

I know the pictures aren't that great, but each one is a coupon, but very different at the same time. The first is a recently expired coupon for Burt's Bee's gift lotion. The second is a Target coupon for their Up & Up facial cleanser. The third is a CVS Extra Care Buck (ECB).

The Basics

Every coupon has some things that are exactly the same in order to work with the system. Where each piece is, changes depending on each coupon, but every single coupon has the same stuff inside, just like everyone has a heart and a brain.

What is it?

Every coupon will tell you what it is. Otherwise, how would you know what the coupon is good for? Each coupon will directly state what product it works with. In the first example, the coupon is for Burt's Bees. Not just any Burt's Bees product, but for any body lotion 6 oz or larger. So now, when you walk in the store or look in your ad, you can directly see if you can use this coupon. Oftentimes, the coupon will include a picture. The picture gives you a basic idea of what the coupon covers, but it isn't always the only thing, so read it, don't just go by the picture! I find this especially true on cereal coupons where a lot of cereal is covered but only one or two is pictured.

How Long is it Good for?

The date. Ah the date. Yeah, it's important. Every coupon has a date (or it isn't a valid coupon). It tells you just how long the coupon is good for. For the Burt's Bees coupon, it expired January 30, 2011. That means that today, February 4, for the most part I won't be able to use it anymore. A few stores will take expired coupons for a little while after their date, but for the most part once it expires, it expires.

Generally coupon dates are 6 weeks to 2 months, although most P&G coupons expire after a month and I've had coupons that expire as quickly as a week after I've gotten them and other coupons that are good for a year! Pay attention to the date, because it can make a big difference when using it.

The Fine Print

Every coupon has fine print. It's usually there for the stores, but you need to pay attention to it too. The coupon will state in the fine print a very important thing: how many coupons you can use. When it comes to manufacturer's coupons, there are two main ways you will see when it comes to how many you can use and one weird twist.

95% of coupons will say "One coupon per purchase". This means that you can use one manufacturer coupon per item you buy. So with the Burt's Bees coupon, I can use it on 1 item but can buy 3 or 4 with 3 or 4 coupons all at one time.

About 2% of coupons will say "One coupon per transaction". This means that you can only use one coupon for each time you go through the cash register. If the Burt Bee's coupon said this, it would mean I could only buy 1 lotion with a coupon. If I want to buy another, I would need to do a separate transaction to buy it.

The weird twist is on P&G coupons (P&G is really weird). They state "One coupon per purchase, limit 4 like coupons." This means that I can use one coupon for each item I have but I can't use more than 4 of these coupons in one transaction. Now, I have yet to see how P&G enforces this and your store may take more than 4 in one transaction, but personally I stick to it. If you really need more than 4, make a separate transaction, OK? This covers about 1% of coupons.

The final 2% is totally off fine print or no fine print. These are incredibly rare and if you find one with no fine print, treat it like a "1 per purchase" since that's most likely the intention of the company.

Store Coupons

The other two coupons up there are 2 store coupons. The first one is from Target. Target coupons are like most store coupons and the most common store coupons. You can print them from their website. Most store coupons look and act just like a manufacturer's coupon. The difference is, though, is that you can use them AT THE SAME TIME as a manufacturer's coupon. Now I put up a coupon for a Target brand product, but many of the store coupons are for major national brands. So if you walk into Target with a manufacturer's Burt's Bees coupon for $1 off lotion and a Target Burt's Bees coupon for $0.50 off lotion, you would get $1.50 on the lotion. For the most part store coupons are "1 per purchase" although some have different things. The most common variation is "Limit XX per coupon" where XX is a number. This means you can buy up to that many with just that coupon. So if it says "Limit 4 per coupon" you can buy 4 with that coupon and add another 4 manufacturer's coupons to get the deal.

The other coupon is a CVS ECB. ECBs (and Register Rewards for Walgreens and UP+ Rewards for Rite Aid) is a $$ off your next purchase. These still have an expiration date like a normal coupon, but it works on any product. You get them from buying qualifying items at the drug store (so far only the drug stores use this type). Let's say that I buy some stuff at CVS that qualifies for $4 in ECB. At the end of my purchase, I would get this $4 off coupon. The next time I'm in CVS, I can use this $4 off my purchase. This is on top of using any other manufacturer's coupons and store coupons (yes, the drug stores do offer regular store coupons too). Thanks to this, I usually spend very little at CVS while walking out with a lot of stuff. I don't do it for Walgreens or Rite Aid, but that is totally a personal preference. The biggest caveat to this is that you have to use the full amount. So if I walk into CVS and my total is $3.50, if I use my $4 ECB, I lose that extra $0.50. They also don't cover taxes, so check your subtotal before handing over your ECBs! I've lost a bit because I didn't check and still had to pay the taxes.

I hope this gives you a better explaination of how a coupon works and what it all means when you are looking at them.

Next, Part 4, How to Store All these Coupons!!!!

See the Other Parts Here:

Part 1
Part 2

How To Do the Coupon Thing. Part 2: Where Do I Get Coupons, Anyway?

So now we've covered a basic on why coupons are good. If used wisely, they save us money! We like money, we especially like keeping money in our pockets. Which means we need coupons. So the next question becomes, Where Do I Get Them?

The Three Main Coupon Sources

There are three main coupon sources. Two of them cost a small fee (but in perspective, are worth it) and the third is completely free! So where can you get them?

The Newspaper. I call this the "throwback" or retro way! You buy a Sunday newspaper (or get a subscription) and inside you will get coupon inserts! Coupon inserts are literally pages and pages of coupons for you to cut out. They are (mostly) for food, household items, personal care, and vitamins. A few other coupons will show up from time to time, but 90% of coupons fall into these 4 categories. While the newspaper will cost you anywhere from $0.50 (what I pay for my Sunday only subscription, per paper) to $2.50 (the major papers if you buy them at a newspaper stand or convenience store), if you use your coupons regularly, you'll save more money with coupons than you paid for the newspaper. Generally, there are $60 to $100 worth of coupons in a Sunday paper. Even if you don't use every coupon (and I never do) if I use 3 or 4 to save $5 or $10, I've certainly gotten my money back!

The Internet. Yup, the Internet is a GREAT place to get coupons. There are now whole websites devoted to giving you coupons to print out and take to the store. If you look to the sidebar on the right, you'll see an advertisement for Coupons.com. This is one coupon site. The way Coupons.com works (and most others online) is that you will download a small program on your computer (it doesn't hurt your computer, it simply tracks the number of times you've printed a coupon and connects your printer directly to the coupons you are printing). Then you go to their site and select which coupons you want to print. Once you're done, simply click "PRINT" (or something similar) and off they go directly to your printer! The biggest thing with this is that these companies limit the number of coupons printed to 2 per computer (maybe IP address. Nobody is 100% sure except the companies and they aren't sharing!) *FULL DISCLOSURE-The sidebar was provided to me by Coupons.com and I do make some money if you click on it. If you prefer, you can go straight to their website, www.coupons.com and print off the same coupons and it skips me.*

Another great way to get coupons on the Internet is to go directly to the manufacturer's website. Many times the manufacturer's provide coupons directly on their site as a promotion for you to go buy their stuff! While I'm not constantly running to a manufacturer's site (with the exception of Pillsbury) if I'm not finding coupons available in other places, or if a very good coupon is suggested by different deals sites, then I will certainly check them out.

For example, today I noticed certain supplements on sale at CVS this week. None of the deal sites had coupons listed for them, but I went to the manufacturer's site and found they had $3/2 coupons.

This also works well if you buy something that rarely goes on sale or has coupons. I prefer a certain depilatory cream for shaving. It almost never goes on sale and the only place I can find coupons is on their site, so when it's time for me to buy it, I stop by their site first to help cut down my cost.

Now, printing coupons online does cost money. It costs you an Internet connection, ink and paper. You may say "Hello! This is really expensive!" And up until last week, I would have agreed with you. But last week I spent $60 in ink. No, I'm not kidding. I also saved over $30 last week from coupons I got online. And I barely used any ink. Nope, I'm not kidding. The cost seems great, but when you compare how much you save with the coupons, it's totally worth it!!!

The Grocery Store. Yup, Your grocery store is a GREAT place to get coupons!

Ever walk through the grocery store and notice those little boxes sticking out of the shelves? Those are called Blinkies (because when they first showed up, they had red blinking lights) and they have coupons for the stuff right by the Blinkie. Depending on the brand, the coupon in a Blinkie may or may not be more valuable than one you can get in your paper or online, so always check and compare if you see a Blinkie near something you were going to buy anyway. Beautiful G loves Blinkies because she knows they have coupons and always grabs a bunch to give me.

Another great place to get coupons in the grocery store are the big food displays. Manufacturer's will provide grocery stores with the displays as a way to promote their product. Many times, these displays will include a coupon you can use. Many times I find that this coupon is more valuable than one I find in the newspaper or online.

Next stop, check what you're buying! As an "instant discount" some manufacturers will include a coupon right on the package! I've found them on refrigerated rolls (Pillsbury loves to give coupons, BTW. They are EVERYWHERE!), flour, relish, cheese, trash bags, cleaning supplies and more. Again, these aren't always as good as the coupon you may already have, so if not, save it for another time you need the product. I have both a flour and a trash bag coupon right now because it was worth it for me to save for a rainy day.

Final spot to check for coupons in the store: The little booklet the stores provide. For example, right now Vons has a "Joy of Football" booklet available. It has lots of coupons in it. Some of the coupons are for Vons (and it's family of stores) only. Others are manufacturer's coupons that I can use anywhere. I find that many times these are also more valuable coupons than I can get in the newspaper or online. While the store ones are nice (because at most stores you can combine a store coupon with a manufacturer's coupon, getting 2 discounts on one item) I love the manufacturer's coupons from these because I can take it to another store that might have a better sale on the item. Check for booklets at the front of the store, usually near the stand that holds this week's ad.

A Few More Ways to Get Coupons

There are a couple more ways to get coupons beyond the big three. Well they work, it's kinda iffy in my mind, so take that when you read these.

Friends and Family. If you have friends and family who get the Sunday paper but don't use the coupons, see if you may have them. My mom keeps her coupons and gives them to me, since she doesn't coupon much. (THANKS MOM! *She reads here and is my biggest fan!*) In turn, I try to clue her in on good deals she may want to take advantage of or pick up something for her if it's an awesome deal and she can't get to the store. I also give her pet coupons, since she has cats on a special diet while I don't have any pets at all. The big downside to this is if something happens, you may not get the coupons or you may not get them in time for the awesome deal unless you make a special effort for it.

Trading Online/Coupon Trains. There are sites out there, like A Full Cup, which allow you to trade coupons with other couponers. They give you a platform to get rid of the excess coupons you don't use in exchange for getting coupons you can use. Personally, I've never had much luck with getting coupons directly. I have sent out coupons as a gift to a few members without a problem, though. With this, you are dealing with the U.S. Mail, whom I love but can be unreliable, and people whom you've never met before who may also be unreliable. There is a system in place at most sites to help keep problems like this in check, but be forewarned it's possible.

Another option for many trading sites is a chance to sign up for a coupon train. A coupon train is when a group of couponers (generally across the US) get together and mail each other coupons every week. It's another way to get rid of your excess coupons in exchange for getting coupons you can use. It works by having person A send coupons to B, who sends coupons to C, who sends coupons to D, who sends coupons to A. Each person should get an envelope full of coupons every week while sending out coupons every week. Part of what makes it work is you are getting coupons from different parts of the country that may not have shown up in your newspaper (some coupons are regional). Some people love coupon trains. I'm so-so on them. I did a coupon train for awhile and found that of the 40 I got every week, I was able to use maybe 3 to 5. I also found myself spending a lot more time cutting, saving and storing coupons I'd never use so I could send them to someone else either this week or next. Plus, again, you're on the whims of the Post Office and people you've never met before. It was something I'm glad I tried, but I'm not ready to do again.

Buying Coupons. Yes, you can buy coupons. Well, technically you are paying someone for the service of cutting the coupon and sending it to you. There are many coupon clipping services available and you can purchase coupons on places like A Full Cup and Ebay.

I have used a coupon clipping service and I wasn't impressed. The selection wasn't great, but it was probably just the company I used. I've also used Ebay several times and have been much happier. There is usually a much bigger selection (simply search for the coupon you want, like "Huggies coupons" and you'll get hits).

The biggest problem with buying coupons is that it can get quite expensive. I went to Ebay recently to buy a coupon that we didn't get locally but was perfect for a deal at CVS and found that a pack of 10 (usually they are sold in groups of 10 or 20 and it's hard to get smaller quantities) was selling for over $10, plus shipping. For this $13-15 I was getting $22.50 in coupons, but it was for only one brand and I didn't need all 10. Also, it's another Post Office/People issue, although the people issue is less here because the sellers want to keep a good reputation. Generally, these services are my last resort.

So Go Get Them

Coupons are all over the place, if you start looking. The big thing is to keep your eyes open and grab them when you can. You never know when you'll find a valuable coupon that can save you a lot of money on your next grocery bill!

Watch for Part 3, The anatomy of a coupon!

This post is part of an ongoing series. Check out the rest of the series:

Part 1
Part 3

How To Do the Coupon Thing. Part 1: What's the Use of Coupons?

Hi! We here at Mrs. Undomestic (and I say we, I mean the "royal we" since there is only little old me running the place) have come to a weird realization. There are people out there who are interested in coupons and have no idea how or where to start. I kinda knew they existed (and I truly understand that most couponers don't do it at my level and I'm not even that extreme) but until Saturday night, when I sat down and started talking to one of my best friends about coupons, that I truly realized that some people just don't understand the process and this is incredibly sad because it can save you tons of money (and, I have learned, some anxiety). So we're going to run a series on how to coupon.

So, What is the Use of Coupons?

Coupons can save you money, they can bring more food (or different varieties) into your home or they can do both. Right now I don't save a whole lot on groceries than I did before coupons, but I am able to provide a larger selection of food than I used to.

I think of coupons as a form of a gift certificate. I didn't have to pay much (a nominal fee, like my newspaper subscription or the price of ink) and I get free money to spend in return. Just like a gift certificate only works at one store, my coupon only works on one item.

To better explain, for the rest of the post, we're going to talk about 3 different types of cereal. Cereal A, Cereal M and Cereal Z. Cereal A is made by the ABC corporation and usually costs $3.50 per box but this week is on sale for $2.25 per box. Cereal M is make by the LMNOP corporation and usually costs $3 per box and is not on sale this week. Cereal Z is XYZ's store brand. Because it's the store brand, it usually costs $1.75 per box and is not on sale this week. If you get confused, refer back to this!

Don't Coupons End Up Making You Spend More?

They can, if you aren't smart about it. Let's say that we walk into XYZ to shop and have a $0.55 off coupon for Cereal A and a $1 off coupon for Cereal M. Since Cereal Z is a store brand, there are no coupons available. At first, having $1 off of Cereal M looks good, because it takes the price down to $2 from $3. But if you buy Cereal M today simply because you have a $1 off coupon, you will still be spending more money than if you bought Cereal Z, which costs $1.75. This is where coupons cost more. You spend money on stuff you don't need or buy something simply because "you have a coupon", it's a waste of money.

At the same time, you can save a lot of money using coupons wisely. Remember, we have a $0.55 off coupon for Cereal A. While the coupon may not look as valuable as the $1 off coupon for Cereal M, it will actually save you a lot more. Cereal A is on sale this week for $2.25. When you add the coupon, it takes the price down to $1.70 per box. This is actually cheaper than Cereal Z, so if you buy Cereal A, you save $0.05 per box of cereal (and trust me, the $0.05 can add up fast! Combining your coupons with sales is the best way to use them and the best way to save your money. I've walked out of stores with free merchandise thanks to coupons (I actually did it a couple times last week).

So Why Do They Give Out Coupons if It Makes Products Cheaper?

Simple, because the manufacturer and the stores make money off of them. I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but here's why. Let's say you buy Cereal A for $1.70 a box. You take it home and your family loves it. Turns out this is the best cereal they ever had and they want it every day. So next week, you find your family begging for Cereal A so you drive out to the store to buy more. It's no longer on sale, so now you're paying $3.50 for it. This is what the manufacturer's are hoping for when they give you coupons. You will try something "because you have a coupon" and it will become something you buy continuously, spending more money in the long run.

Stores like coupons too. The week that Cereal A was on sale, Store XYZ had a double shipment of Cereal A and has to get the boxes sold to make room on their shelves. Since you know that with your coupon, Cereal A costs $1.70 instead of the normal $3.50, you use 3 coupons and buy 3 boxes. This gets 3 boxes off their shelves and they will get an additional $1.89 for the sale. "WHAT?" you say? Yup, the store will get money for you buying Cereal A. The ABC corporation, like all corporations with coupons available, will refund the store the $0.55 cents you saved on the coupon PLUS $0.08 per coupon as a shipping and handling fee. So as long as you aren't trying to cheat the store (and you shouldn't!) the store gets more space on its shelves to stock product AND makes a small amount of money simply because you used a coupon.

So Coupons are Good?

Well, they can be. Coupons, if used correctly, will save your family money. Or, do as I did, and free up more money to buy other groceries, increasing the amount of food you are able to provide. Coupons, if used incorrectly, can cost you more money or decrease the amount of food you can purchase. So use your coupons wisely!

Up Next, Where Do I Get Coupons?

This is the first part of a series. Check out the rest:

Part 2 
Part 3